Teaching an Old Dog (Updated) Tricks: Why I Changed My Mind About Dermaplaning

My Initial Skepticism

“What’s the thing with the blade that takes off hair?” If I had a dollar for every time I got this question in the past year, I’d have enough money to buy myself a very nice sheet mask haul. The technique in question? Dermaplaning.

I actually learned how to dermaplane over 15 years ago while practicing esthetics in Chicago. Back then, the technique was geared towards med-spa settings, and let me tell you—it was pretty harsh.

After cleansing off my client’s makeup and other detritus, I would swipe acetone across their face. Yep, actual acetone. "Why does it smell like nail polish remover?" they’d ask, to which I’d breezily reply, "Because it is!" Cue their furrowed brows and my 20-something-year-old self realizing I had no real way to make that sound better. Once the acetone evaporated, I’d grab my blade and nervously whisk away beginning at their forehead, silently praying they wouldn’t sneeze, cough, or start asking more questions. This was supposed to be a 30 minute treatment, meaning it was designed to be a fast, drive-thru-style service with little room for discussion or adjustments.

I found the whole process impersonal, rushed, and awkward. Needless to say, I was not a fan of dermaplaning.

Moving to California: Out of Sight, Out of Mind

Fast forward to 2014—I packed up, moved to California, and vowed never to see snow again. Why does this matter? At the time, dermaplaning was out of scope for estheticians here, so I spent years not even thinking about it.

I did notice at-home devices popping up, but I wasn’t too concerned (yet). My clients weren’t asking for dermaplaning, and those who had heard of it were mostly worried their hair would grow back thicker (which, by the way, isn’t true—more on that in a second). Still, I dismissed the whole thing, haunted by my acetone-scented memories.

Then, in 2022, the rules changed: dermaplaning officially became part of an esthetician’s scope of practice in California. But at the time, I was working at a spa that didn’t offer it. I started getting more questions, though, especially from clients who had tried it for special occasions. Turns out, removing peach fuzz makes makeup glide on super smooth and look amazing in photos. (Which makes total sense, but at the time, I still wasn’t convinced.)

Clients Kept Asking—And I Kept Saying No

When I opened Lemon Lounge, one of the things I loved most was being in control of what equipment and services I invested in. And dermaplaning? It did not make the list.

Afraid my clients would turn to risky at-home versions, I started referring them to a trusted colleague who was trained in a newer, less aggressive dermaplaning technique. But my clients made it clear—they’d rather have me do it. They already trusted me with their skin, so why go somewhere else for just one piece of their facial routine?

Re-Education: A Shift in Perspective

I figured if the demand was there, it was time for me to take another look at dermaplaning. First, I called up my esthie-bestie and offered my own face for market research.

I walked into her studio excited yet skeptical. But within minutes, I realized things had changed. No acetone. No in-and-out-in-30-minutes rush. Instead, she cleansed my skin, used a toner to prep, and then applied a layer of oil to help the blade glide effortlessly. It felt like an agile little figure skater sweeping across my skin—smooth, precise, and totally non-irritating. Best of all? The whole treatment was integrated into a 60-minute facial, meaning I walked out not just smoothed out, but relaxed.

For two weeks after, my skin glowed. My makeup looked flawless. And I had to admit—maybe I’d been wrong about dermaplaning.

So, I started researching courses. I found a company that offered an updated method that aligned with my skincare philosophy: no unnecessary harshness, more barrier-friendly, and flexible enough to integrate with other treatments (like LED for soothing or even a light peel if someone’s skin can tolerate both). The training process was no joke either—before even stepping foot in the classroom, I had to complete hours of video modules, quizzes, and a 70-page workbook. But the more I learned, the more I realized that my resistance wasn’t really about dermaplaning itself—it was about outdated information and fear.

Oh, and about that whole "hair growing back thicker" myth? Let’s clear that up. Dermaplaning removes vellus hair (aka peach fuzz), which grows back at the exact same texture and color it was before. It may feel a little different at first because the blunt tip is growing out all at once, rather than the tapered ends you’re used to. But rest assured—dermaplaning doesn’t change your hair’s structure, and it definitely won’t turn into coarse stubble.

So, I signed up.

Immediate Success

My hands-on training was on April 19th. It’s amazing how much you learn in a matter of a few hours! The training included a full kit to practice on clients before officially launching the service. I offered it during April and the beginning of May at no charge to anyone interested in trying it, and while I gave a few nicks while I was refining my technique, the results were all amazing. I had one client message me days later that she didn’t realize she needed dermaplaning in her life before now. As always, I take a balanced and careful approach to offering it. I don’t offer dermaplaning to first time clients and if seasoned visitors of Lemon Lounge are having an “off” skin day when they come in, I’ll opt for a more gentle treatment. Overall though, there is definitely a place in my practice for dermaplaning and I’m glad that I reassessed my feelings and decided to obtain my certification.     

One Last Thing 

If you’ve been tempted to try those DIY dermaplaning tools, don’t. They lack the same blade quality and precision, and can actually lead to irritation, cuts, and even infection. If you’re looking for a way to exfoliate between facials, we can find a safer solution for your needs in between dermaplaning sessions, like peel pads or a gentle scrub. Remember, the end goal is giving you the healthy skin that you deserve!